The houppelande is made of green wool, lined with brown linen and partly lined
and trimmed with grey fur. Underneath it I am wearing my orange kirtle and a
white chemise. All visible seams have been handsewn.
Detail from The Deposition, painted by Rogier van der Weyden, ca.1435
No commercial pattern used.
When I decided to attend a medieval market in november.I searched for the
warmest costume I could find, the houppelande was on my wishlist so the choice
was easy. A bigger problem was choosing what type of houppelande I wanted as
there is a great variety in necklines and sleeves options for this costume. I
love the look of the early houppelande with it's high collar and wide angel
sleeves, but I am afraid it will make me look small and sturdy. With this
version the neckline is still high but the sleeves are tight, which makes this
costume both warm and practical.
My version of the houppelande is not the basic wide a-line dress as
you often see. It is constructed like the Herjolfsnes coat (garment 63),
described by Dame Helen in her Greenland theory. I had read that theory before
making the herjolfsnes coat for my husband and when I was making the coat I saw
that there was a lot of sense in what she was saying. I own a copy of the
version sold by the Museum and I made the panels of the coat a little wider and
the armscye smaller.
(l)The following year I added fur to the hemline.
Costume made in 2004.
The black leather belt is stamped with falling oak leaves and has a decorated
pewter buckle and strap-end.It was purchased at the medieval market from Colin
Kendall aka Maisie Nicholas. In the picture of my dress I am wearing the
beautiful buckle on my back.